Motu – Shortboard
When surfboards evolved into shorter lengths, they became very maueverable. Younger agile riders can utilize the whole wave. My wife and I rented a cottage outside Hana near Koki Beach where I watched a young native fellow just tear up a wave set………….went back to the cottage wishing I could do it myself but not being much of a ocean swimmer I painted this instead.
by me in Hana, Maui in 2016